The beauty of the letter is that beyond the terse NO VISITORS, it is actually very considerate. If Buk really wanted to blow me off, he wouldn't have answered, or he wouldn't have signed the letter. Instead, he took the time to reply, and in a way that reflects his personality and style so well. And which he certainly knew would be treasured by me (and us), almost as much as a visit would have been. In fact, Lord knows what would have happened if he had actually invited me to visit--how awkward would that have been?